Sebastian Herkner - In Search of Contemporary Expressions for Age-Old Traditions


Yoko Choy chats to German designer Sebastian Herkner, who established his studio in Offenbach in his native country after he graduated in 2007 from the city’s University of Art and Design. The city is commonly noted for two main things: its weather forecasting centre and its historic leather industry. But now, it is home to one of the design industry’s most sought-after young studios, too.

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Conversation Transcript

Yoko: Hello Sebastian. 

Sebastian: Hi Yoko.

Yoko: Hi, how are you today?

Sebastian: I’m good. I’m good. Sun is shining, so it’s good, and it’s almost weekend. So, it’s always good.

Yoko: That’s true. So, where are you talking to us from today?

Sebastian: I’m at my table in the studio here in Offenbach, which is the city very close to Frankfurt. So, there’s just the river Main between. And I’ve been living here since 2001. I started here at the University of Art and Design Offenbach, and then after graduation in 2007 I established my own studio here.

Yoko: OK. I have never been to Offenbach, but I know that you have your studio there and there is also one of my favourite leather brands, Tsatsas. 

Sebastian: Tsatsas, yes, they produce around the corner.

Yoko: So, as I understand this is a city very rich in crafts and craftsmanship. So, can you tell us a bit more about that?

Sebastian: Yes, Tsatsas is actually the only leather producer now in the city, you know. When you enter the city, it says German Weather City, because there’s the weather forecasting centre, and also German Leather City. There’s the leather fair and the leather museum, but all the manufacturers, the producers and big companies, they’ve all disappeared in the last 20 years because of different reasons, to produce somewhere else cheaper or they closed. 

And that was the reason for me to consider getting more into craft in my work because I know a lot of people, and the parents of friends, who have been working in the leather business, sewing, packaging, delivering or whatever, or supplying to the leather industry. And it was something connecting all the people and creating the culture of Offenbach; and when that disappeared over the last decades, I think the link between the people got lost and also the identity, the culture and that. 

So: bringing people together – like, if you think about Murano where our friend Luca Nichetto comes from, there it’s all about glass and glass connects the people. It was the same here in Offenbach that leather connected people, and Tsatsas – the brand you mentioned – they still keep up with the heritage of the city with the craft, with the value, with the beauty of leather products. And I was thinking also, “OK, what is the beauty of craft?” because when I started early in 2000 it was a lot about new innovation, new materials, plastics, whatever, and I actually thought, “OK, let’s go the other way, focus on craft,” which I knew, of course, from my grandparents and from museums and things like this, and it so important for design history and still today for new design products.

Yoko: Very true. So, are you working with local craftsmen or any kind of craft in your work at the moment? 

Sebastian: There are local ones here. They are around the corner, but you know Germany – it’s not that big. So, we have a lot of producers. Like for the Bell Table, for ClassiCon, they are in Bavaria, which is three hours away by car. And I love the fact that the companies are close by because then I can go there to visit them, to look behind the scenes, to understand the craftsmen – what they are doing, how they work and to understand the material and their techniques and what they specialise in. Because every glass blowing company, for example, has specific techniques, and for me it’s always a discovery to go there to understand and to take those inspirations home and start sketching or working.

Bell Table series for ClassiCon - 2012–2020

Bell Table series for ClassiCon - 2012–2020

Yoko: So, you mentioned the Bell Table you designed for ClassiCon, and a lot of people came to know about you and your work through the Bell Table so can you tell us a little bit about the concept and how do you got to work with ClassiCon?

Sebastian: Well, actually the sketch for the initial design is 11 years old. It was from 2009, and I presented the table for the first time at SaloneSatellite in Milan. It’s a platform for young designers every year, which is very important for young designers, to support them and to give them visibility to the press. And I received good feedback, especially from the press, and then it was the issue to find a producer who wanted to take it for their portfolio. Because at that time I mentioned it was about new material innovations and technology, things like this, and then there was a table produced in traditional glass and brass. 

So, very old-fashioned materials, and it took me three years to get it in production with ClassiCon then Oliver Holy [the owner of the brand] called me, and he wanted to have a table of his own and then for his parents. And then he asked if he could produce it, and then since 2012 we produced it in two sizes, and finally this year in Cologne at the fair we even presented the dining table. So, it has a long story, and I was looking into brass and I was thinking about doing a side table. 

Normally, a side table is with a glass top and a metal base, but I put both materials’ topologies upside down and, what I said already, to swim against the river, to do work not with new material, but with traditional materials; the same with the table to change the arrangement of materials. And the big issue actually for me at that time was to find a glass blower around the corner, because there are a lot of companies, but they work more for the chemical industry – glass tubes and cylinders and things like this. 

And then it took me a couple of weeks to find a producer and Freiherr von Poschinger called; it’s in Bavaria next to the Czech border. So, that’s the area of glass production, Germany and Czech Republic, and this company is more than 450 years old, and that’s very, very special. I think it’s my oldest supplier, and they are in their 16th generation. So, this is also very interesting because it’s still the same family. Nowadays if I work with companies there are just a few still that are families, but there are so many now driven by investors and they change every three years. And there you have a company 450 years in the hands of the same people with an amazing knowledge of glass production. 

You can also find this at Bellini or other Murano-based companies for sure. And when I went there the first time 11 years ago it was just for small objects for restoration – if someone dropped a vase or needed to fix a chandelier; things like this. But now, since 2012, since the table has been running with ClassiCon, they produce the table non-stop and it’s a kind of sustainability also, a cultural benefit for the area that this table and now also more products support the company itself, the manufacturer. But also, to give attention to glass production again and there are a lot of young people now working who are getting trained as a glass blower. So, it’s also important to give the knowledge a future.

Yoko: Yes; how to connect people and how to give a new life to old crafts. 

Sebastian: That’s very important to connect people, to have a dialogue. Design is about conversation, it starts with paper and a pen, and then sharing the idea with the team, making small rough 3D sketches, a model – not about proportions, just to visualise the idea. Then the conversation between the computer and the human, and then between the craftsman and us. So, I love to work with the craftsman in their workshop. Unfortunately, this year it’s a little bit more tricky. 

So, normally I travel to Columbia or to Taiwan or a lot to Italy and Denmark to work together with the people and this is something I really miss. Also, at the fairs, to explain the product to journalists, to dealers, to designers and to enthusiastic people, to show them and explain that it’s a lot of work to design a product. And there are a lot of amazing people involved with their hands; they put their sweat and their passion and their concentration and their knowledge everyday into the product to produce it, whether it’s a wooden chair or a glass table or whatever. 

Because if you go to Salone del Mobile – to mention the biggest furniture show – I think most of the products are handmade. Of course, you have plastic chairs, they are pressed and every five minutes you get a chair, but in the end, there are also people involved to get the finish perfect, to check everything and pack it and so on. And it’s so important to mention the fact that there are a lot of humans involved, also collaborations in Asia and it’s woven and there are people sitting for four days on a seating to weave it. And sometimes when I have a presentation at a dealer’s, they ask if it’s done by robot or if it’s 3D printed or whatever, but it’s done by people; they do it so perfectly and each item looks the same.

Yoko: The success of the Bell Table tells us that actually we are very much eager to have this connection to material, to craft and to people and the Bell Table became iconic in your career. I want to know how you define an icon. How do you make a design icon?

Pola sofa for La Manufacture - 2020

Pola sofa for La Manufacture - 2020

Sebastian: Actually, you cannot make one. It’s not that you look in a book and then it’s like a recipe and you have to put good tools and materials and craftsmen all in a big pot and you boil it and then you have an icon. Unfortunately it’s not possible; otherwise, we would just do icons. Of course, not every product we design is a Bell Table or a successful product, but there are a lot of people involved; it’s not just the designer and craftsmen. It’s also about good photography, good marketing, good agents and dealers, but our idea, what drives us every single day, is to think about quality, a long-lasting product which becomes a companion for life, maybe a companion for generations. 

Because now during COVID-19 we’ve had the time to consider our life, to reflect on our life, to think about quality, to go to the local market maybe to buy vegetables. I’ve had more time to cook because normally I’m sitting for 35% of the year in a plane travelling for talks and fairs and presentations and meetings. And now I have also had the time to enjoy life at home and to think about quality of life and this is the same for products. We want good products and we still buy too much nonsense and stupid things, and we want to get rid of it after one season or two seasons. It’s a little bit like the fashion industry. That’s a big topic always, fast fashion, but it exists also with furniture. 

Fast furniture is everywhere. You can buy furniture not just at furniture stores, you get it also at the local supermarkets, those “special collections”. And this is furniture that has nothing to do with lasting a long time or quality or a lot of design impact or work. There are a lot of rip-offs, copies, and we also have to somehow educate the people to buy things which last for a long time. Like you see, for example, in Denmark, when I often go, you walk around the streets, an in the evening when the lights are on in the living room you see even in the most simple areas the people have a design icon such as a chair, because it’s an icon; maybe it’s also a status symbol, but on the other hand it’s also quality. 

Sebastian: Those designs have existed already for 60 years. You can buy perfect vintage ones, you can buy re-editions or new ones from all those Danish brands, and I think the people appreciate the design and the quality; all folk would want those products with our partners, and the European design, production and market is very high quality – you can see this if you go to France or Italy and to all those suppliers. Because most of them were sustainable in their area, and that’s very special. In Italy they have their suppliers around the corner, which are specialists for small brass feet for lounge chairs or for upholstery or for wood bending. And that’s always the best opportunity of course for a designer like me to go there to develop long-lasting products with those companies.

Yoko: So, we’re all in this pandemic time, we all have an opportunity stay home and to rethink about our lifestyle and enjoy a bit something that we can’t do when we have to constantly travel. But for your work travelling is also a very important part of your creations. So, how is it affecting you that you can’t travel anywhere to meet your suppliers and manufacturers, your clients or your audience? How is it working for you?

Sebastian: Travelling of course is a huge privilege. You feel it nowadays especially, but also for me I did a lot of camping with my parents when I was a child, in Scandinavia, Italy and five, six years in a row in France. So, I know every church and stone in France, I think. And then with my job I had the opportunity to go to Taiwan, Columbia, Japan and Russia and also to Africa, to Zimbabwe and this is always a huge source of inspiration. And to go there not like a tourist, to drive there on the bus, to go there to the workshops, to sit down to have lunch, dinner together, to drink the local beer, listen to the music and so on. And this is now, of course, missing.

 

 So, we have no mutual sharing. We do now have presentations on Zoom or even have some virtual product meetings which actually worked quite well. They send the sample, or we have a printout and then we have the discussion. And actually, it was much better than I expected, and what I have learned is that we can do a lot of meetings in this way, so I have to travel less. But of course, for a fair – and I really miss fairs because you meet people, and you can touch the design; it’s necessary to go somewhere because design is about using all the senses and not just about seeing. You want to smell the wood, you want to touch the cold metal or the velvet fabric, and this is so important. 

Yoko: Yes, I remember, I think we last saw each other was Cologne, right, at the fair? 

Sebastian: At the fair, or 3 Days of Design in Copenhagen. 

Yoko: I didn't go this year.

Sebastian: Ok, so it was in Cologne. 

Yoko: It was like almost a year ago. It’s crazy. So, I remember your trip to Taiwan, and I was so sad that I couldn’t join, and it was a very special project that you did with the local Craft Research and Development Institute. So, can you share – can you tell us – just tell us about the trip? It’s fascinating.

 
 

 Sebastian: It was my first time in Taiwan. So, I flew there, and it was well curated by Ben and by Liz and we travelled around in a group of maybe eight designers from mostly Europe. And we had a bus and travelled from one craftsman to the next one, and that’s also super inspiring because there are techniques with materials we don’t have here in Europe, like bamboo. Or we have those Cochin potteries, which are the ceramic clay potteries – you know from the temples there – for the decoration. And so, it was meeting the people, travelling, getting inspired by the colours, by the culture which is different of course to the European one, with amazing dumpling dinners with towers of dumplings in those bamboo boxes. That’s always super fascinating. 

And then every designer picked one topic or one material and one craftsman and I had the opportunity to do a bench made of bamboo with a craftsman who was maybe around 80 years old who’s doing this with a lot of passion and patience, which is very important. It took him several weeks to do a quite simple bench, but it was all done without screws. So, it was all connected with bamboo but perfectly done, and I think patience is something very important we all have to learn because nowadays you buy online, get an Amazon delivery next day, and if you don’t like it, send it back. 

So, we don’t have respect for craft, the value of products, the value of materials. And here I had to wait a couple of weeks. It’s the same if I do a rag in Columbia or with a rag company from London, it takes six months to get a small sample to see the first result of the idea. Or an item hand knotted in Himalaya, and this is something I always point to the fact of patience that we need to learn again to have respect for time.

Yoko: Why bamboo? Why did you choose bamboo? 

Sebastian: Because I’ve never actually done a bamboo project. Of course, I know all kinds of wood and bamboo is something very fast growing. There are bamboos that grow almost a metre a day, and it’s very stable, it’s very light. It’s a very sustainable material also. If you think about Hong Kong or Shanghai, there are a lot of those constructions of skyscrapers or high apartment buildings and outside there’s all the structure in bamboo because it’s a cheap, fast growing material and also kind of elastic and you can bend it with heat, and he did those beautiful benches, and I was really fascinated to see it.

Yoko: I think one of the main purposes of this kind of project is to help the local craftsman and the industry stay alive. So, do you think this collaboration, this experiment helped them to figure out how they can survive in the future? Or what’s the connection there?

Sebastian: The idea of the intercultural connection to bring different cultures together, young designers, craftsmen to create vision for the material or for the technique, which is always also my aim. So, if I go to Columbia it’s not just to do those objects you can buy on those tourist places in markets; it’s more to use the technology or the craft and the colours and materials and to transfer them to another level, in another language to make it more maybe international and less touristic. And it’s the same with the collaboration in Taiwan, it was the exchange and to think about the material; how we could use it in another context.

Yoko: Is it a one-off project?

Sebastian: That was a one-off project for an exhibition, yes.

Yoko: It’s a really beautiful bench.

Sebastian: Then also you learn something from that and then later you can transfer to a completely different typology. If you learn something about a construction of sofa, maybe you can use a detail later if you design sunglasses or something completely different. And as a designer I’m driven by curiosity and it’s about having no borders, really – the freedom is so important. And it’s not just about furniture or lighting, it could be also fashion or sunglasses or ties or a barbeque, a product design, a technical product. And this also makes it always fresh and keeps the creativity if you are not just sticking to one typology like chairs, chairs, chairs. This makes it more interesting to have the variety and to bring aspects from one typology to another one.

Yoko: That’s exactly what you are doing. You’re doing chairs, tables, glasses, trays, everything. You designed a very nice pair of sunglasses for a German brand recently. 

Sebastian: Yes, for the Berlin based company IC! Berlin.

IC! Berlin x Studio Sebastian Herkner - 2019

IC! Berlin x Studio Sebastian Herkner - 2019

Yoko: It’s something completely – well, as far as I understand, it’s something completely different for you in terms of not only the typology but how to make a functional or fashionable icon.

Sebastian: It was very, very difficult because it was something completely different. It’s much closer to the human body. So, it’s always with you, and of course to design something for a face – faces are so different. The nose, the eye and everything. So, it was quite tricky and together with my assistant Sara, we did a small range, but a beautiful one and very well received. Because it has a different approach or different feedback as a designer, because we don’t come from the sunglasses industry or are sunglasses designers. So, we brought some inspiration into a business we had never worked in before, and this is also an advantage for companies sometimes to look for people or designers who are not typically working in that field.

Yoko: The result is very nice. Will you do another one for them? 

Sebastian: Yes, this will continue. This is also my own one that you can see.

Yoko: Cool. And I really like the painting, so the graphic behind you. What are they? Can you show us?

Sebastian: Oh, those two here? They are actually from a student from the university I graduated. I bought them at one of their exhibitions.

Sebastian: Art is always very interesting. Of course, artists have a freedom a designer never can have, because we are always linked to more parameters or to a company or to aesthetics and things like this. But it’s a huge source of inspiration. If you look at art, it’s also a lot about real materials and craftsmanship, but a lot of these creatives are connected. Some people ask me “What would you do next if you were not a designer?” Then it would be maybe a chef in a restaurant, because it’s very similar. You need good tools, you need the right materials, high quality, and then you create something and it’s about all the senses, the smell and the taste and how it looks. And it’s a very creative job to be a chef, and all those things are closely connected. 

Yoko: Are you a good cook?


Sebastian: I hope so. No, the friends never complain. They come quite often. I don’t like to cook for myself, but I like to cook for friends in a group, or in summer we do a lot of barbeques on our roof terrace. It’s something very German to do, barbeque, in summer almost every evening. 


Yoko: Cool. So, what are the new projects you are working on at the moment? What should we expect to see next?


Sebastian: We have actually some new clients since COVID-19, which was interesting because companies had time maybe to look at their portfolio and clean the portfolio and think about new collaborations. And then we are also doing a lot of extensions at the moment. But still the big question is how to present our products in a new way. You know, like we did for last April; they have now been presented a little, but the companies look forward to presenting them physically to the audience – to the people, to the dealers. So, that’s actually a big question mark, where to present, how to present, because digital is a good way but in the end, we want to see it physically to test it, to test the comfort and to have a dialogue about it. So, we hope that there will be a show maybe in September, the Salone, as they announced yesterday. That would be good, to get back to normal a little bit –, if it’s the new one or the old one, I don’t care.

Yoko: That remains a big question, how do we reach the world again? 

Sebastian: Exactly.

Yoko: Do you think that digital launches work for you or not exactly?

Sebastian: The feedback was good, but it’s difficult of course for dealers now to order products just because at the end they need orders – and for people to trust to order after a Zoom call. And of course some did some not – because for dealers it’s always a huge investment to order for one season or to go to a fair, frankly speaking. So, of course, it’s much better to have a product that they can physically see at a fair and that’s why I look forward for the next fair, and I’m sure we need fairs because they are also sometimes rumours – do we need fairs in the future?  But it’s important to have a platform to meet each other. It’s also a kind of competition: what is the next company doing? What is the other designer doing? I like this also, and to meet the people and to have the conversations. 

Mati trays for Zanat - 2020

Mati trays for Zanat - 2020

Yoko: So, one last question. When we can travel freely again, what’s the first place you want to go?

Sebastian: The first place I want to go? Actually, I miss destinations outside of Europe like Asia. I miss Shanghai a lot, Japan, but of course I also haven’t been to Columbia this year. Normally I go once a year to Columbia to see the production, to develop new things there. So, there are a lot of spots I want to go and also a lot of destinations I have never been, or for a vacation. But on the other hand, it was nice this year with my partner – we had a vacation in the former part of East Germany. I have never been, just in Berlin, and it was nice to see our own country, to understand, to go to Dresden to Leipzig, which are beautiful cities with beautiful landscapes around. So, this was also fascinating and sometimes it’s not just to go far, far away. Sometimes it’s also the beauty around the corner.

Yoko: Yes, very true. Anyhow, I hope to see you again very soon.

Sebastian: Sure. I hope so too.

Yoko: So, thank you so much for today.

Sebastian: Thank you, thank you very much for the talk.

Yoko: Thank you. Speak to you soon.

Sebastian: Thank you. Bye, bye.